Dining alone in NYC is something that has always both intrigued and terrified me. While a hurried workday lunch is one thing, sitting down for a long, luxurious dinner is another animal entirely. Alone with your thoughts (and perhaps your phone), truly enjoying and contemplating food while allowing your senses to fully engage with the surroundings.
About a month ago I stumbled upon the Momofuku website and looked at the two week calendar availability for Ko. Before this moment I had no intention of booking a reservation, but as the 7:00pm slot started taunting me, I pulled the trigger and went for it. Immediately I began to have doubts. Could I afford the steep price tag attached to this type of tasting menu? Would it be awkward sitting alone for 3 hours?
Soon I realized though that this was a unique, bucket list experience, and an opportunity that I would later regret not taking. Further, it made perfect sense that Momofuku would be the establishment where I would place all of my trust. Ever since David Chang burst onto the scene with Noodle Bar (I still pick Ippudos for best Ramen in NYC, but that's another story) I have been a both an avid fan and customer of the brand. I bought his cookbook and remember experimenting with the funky flavors of Pan-roasted asparagus w/ poached egg & miso butter, as well as the umami bursting Roasted cauliflower with fish sauce vinaigrette. With Milk Bar mere blocks from my high school, during free time I would run around the corner and pick up ever so tender pork buns and a gigantic blueberry cookie.
With these memories in mind I exited the blustery New York weather and entered the haven that was Momofuku Ko. Throughout the evening there are several seatings, where a group of diners are served in unison. The majority of the seats are nestled along a U shaped bar, surrounding an open kitchen, with only recently the addition of a couple of intimate tables tucked into the corner for larger parties. As soon as I arrived at the front desk I was greeted with, "Mr. Jaffrey, correct?" Somewhat taken aback I replied in the affirmative. Either I was the last guest for that scheduled service to arrive, or they had really done their homework.
Looking around, the majority of the other diners seemed to be couples of all ages and ethnicities. An overweight eastern european man with his slender, blonde girlfriend could have been a villain out of the film Eastern Promises if not for his brimming smile the entire night. There was a young couple who were clearly celebrating a birthday or an anniversary. An older, refined pair were mostly likely seasoned veterans, already three quarters the way through the NYC tasting menu circuit. There was also the couple who ate the food, but undoubtedly came for the extensive and well handled wine and beer list. With every sip or conversation with the sommelier they gasped or laughed in pure ecstasy.
The space itself though is modern without being stiff. All around are glass cases that hold the ingredients that we would be tasting throughout the evening. Glistening Iberico ham legs, porterhouse steaks and picture perfect beets and tomatoes received the respect they deserved, almost as if they were in a laboratory or museum. Enough about the people, let's talk about the food!
Wait, I lied. Before discussing the food, I should talk a bit about the experience, because it certainly was just that; an indelible evening of excess and refinement. At this point I had no idea what I would be eating and how many courses the meal would last. I had only been asked if I have any food allergies. Now the show begins. Inside the open kitchen the Chef, Sous-Chef and cooks all work purposefully but also with the knowledge that their actions and behavior are on display. There is diligence and determination as well as a sense of deep enjoyment. I was able to talk to the various cooks and discuss the process, the product and the business. At the same time though, the front of house was zipping around behind my back. Ever so gently a manager, sommelier or other staff member will approach you and strike up a genuine conversation. Immediately I could tell that my appearance had made them curious. A younger guy, eating a 3 hour tasting course alone is certainly not the norm. Instead of being distant though, they asked me about myself, my work and my interests. These discussions soon turned into an offer to take a tour of the restaurant after the meal was done. I soon realized that I would have no time to be bored or anxious. I was part of a show that had so many different layers: the food, the cooks, the front of house, the other patrons; all working in unison to run this magnificent culinary engine.
Amuse-Bouche: Potato Waffe, Pommes Soufflees, Lobster Paloise
Scallop - tonburi, citron
Razor clam - apple, basil
Caviar- potato, fermented radish & house made sourdough bread and butter
Pyramidi - broccoli, aged cheddar
Venison - kale, olive berry
Foie gras -lychee, pine nut, riesling jelly
Chocolate - mint, fernet branca
Korean barley tea with honey
Above are about half of the dishes from the 14 course tasting menu I encountered at Momofuku Ko. After meal was over, each guest received a hard cover booklet containing all of the dishes from that evening. I can say without question that this was one of the best, if not the best meal I have experienced in my life. Let's talk about the food.
The second course (not pictured) is a fish bone consomme with shiso and fingerlime. For me this dish tasted like the ocean. No not literally like salty, brackish water, but like my most fond and vivid memory at the beach, encapsulated in a couple of bites. The razor clams with apple and basil was a dish that followed a similar path but brought forth an exquisite sweetness and combination of textures that made it wholly unique. While the portion sizes were small, I felt that they balanced quite well the law of diminishing returns with the fact that each new bite can offer something different.
When I received the sourdough bread & butter at the same time as the caviar, whipped potatoes and fermented radish, I knew it was time to deviate and create. I mixed the butter with the radish and caviar and spread it on top of delicious, warm, spongey bread to create a bite that was so full of decadence and comfort that it took me off guard. Venison with Kale and olive berry puree was a visually stunning dish that offered a tremendous amount of rich gamey flavor. The meat cut effortlessly and the kale was perfectly seasoned and concentrated in its essence.
The dish that most people think about when they hear Momofuku Ko is the classic shaved foie gras with lychee, pine nut and riesling jelly, which has never been taken off the menu. This is for good reason. Any description of the method in which the foie gras tenderly melts in your mouth, leaving behind a meaty, funky sweetness complimented by hints of grape and earth, would not due justice to the product. It should be noted that throughout this meal I was guided on two choices of wine; one red and one white that acted as graceful and essential backup singers to the main attraction. I ended the meal with Korean Barley tea which not only cleansed my palate, but also brought me back to Korea where I first tried it.
The only dishes that were not spectacular in my opinion (still delicious though) were the beef carpaccio with rutabaga and hozon, as well as the monkfish liver with poblano.
After finishing the meal, and receiving a generous and informative tour of the restaurant, I couldn't stop thinking about the evening. At first some doubts crept in. Was the food too safe? There was nothing spicy on the menu, no live shrimp, no real shock value. I didn't really get many hints of Korean cuisine. How could all of this be possible, yet I still felt like I had eaten the best meal of my life. Soon it dawned on me that the tasting menu at Ko is not about a particular region and is not meant to be alarming. I looked at the menu which first describes the main component of the dish and afterwards the flavors that accompany it. This meal was always about paying respect to the ingredients. The fundamental question that Chang's team answers is, how do we create a dish around this one ingredient to bring it to its most absolute and essential form. It's as much about art and science as it is about heart and memories. I applaud Momofuku Ko and would recommend the experience to anyone who wants a truly unique culinary advenutre; a NYC theater performance second to none.